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Bouldering in North Wales.
A Northern Soul Production
Rock climbing enthusiasts can not fail to notice the increase
in popularity of bouldering not only in North Wales, but also
in the whole of Britain. Since the explosion of bouldering in
North Wales in the winter of 96/97, the emergence of the 'pad
people' has become a regular sight especially on the lush hillsides
of the Llanberis pass. It seems, and I generalise here, that before
then bouldering in this area was not purely a sport in itself,
but merely a training for roped climbing or a past time away from
the stresses and strains of long routes. However, before 1996,
a rich history was being established and this has been the basis
for classic and historic problems, traditional areas, and an element
of cloak and dagger regarding some truly special venues.
However the main protagonists were merely loading the canon,
and now we have in this area groups of climbers who predominately
boulder.
As a result the number of venues and problems has
increased providing a need for two fanzine style bouldering guides
which have now been produced, and also the standard of the hardest
problems is keeping pace with other areas in Britain.
Bouldering in North Wales is, although quite seasonal
and sometimes a little esoteric, a very special experience and
so I have put together a selection of the best venues, chronicling
there location, conditions and some of the golden problems to
look out for.
However, before 1996, a rich history was being established and
this has been the basis for classic and historic problems, traditional
areas, and an element of cloak and dagger regarding some truly
special venues. However the main protagonists were merely loading
the canon, and now we have in this area groups of climbers who
predominately boulder. As a result the number of venues and problems
has increased providing a need for two fanzine style bouldering
guides which have now been produced, and also the standard of
the hardest problems is keeping pace with other areas in Britain.
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Bouldering in North Wales is, although quite seasonal and sometimes
a little esoteric, a very special experience and so I have put
together a selection of the best venues, chronicling there location,
conditions and some of the golden problems to look out for.
This is however not a definitive work, merely an introductory
taster, there are loads more venues, problems and projects all
information on which can be gleaned from volume one and two of
Bouldering in North Wales produced by Northern Soul and available
immediately from Outside in Llanberis.
Now, if you're sat in Pete's Eats reading this on their internet
facility and chomping on one of their huge chip butties get out
there and start cranking! But remember when your fingers are trashed
and your joints are aching reconvene in Pete's, bull on, drink
endless brews and soak up the total pleasure of climbing in North
Wales.
Bouldering, the essence of rock climbing, a definition.
Bouldering is the real essence of rock climbing. It is an activity
where the climber is unhindered by fear and uncluttered by climbing
equipment, and they are free to climb at their physical limit.
Bouldering is usually played out on short cliffs or boulders,
and movement, timing, and sheer physical strength take precedence
over boldness or route experience found in conventional rock climbing.
The routes up these particular boulders are called 'problems'
and they are named and then graded for difficulty. By doing this
the difficulty of a particular boulder problem can be compared
to other problems, and as in conventional rock climbing a climber
can pit themselves at problems to which they feel suitable.
Because the hardest moves are always found in bouldering, one
can say that the ascentsionist of the hardest boulder problem
is the strongest climber.
But I think bouldering has a deeper meaning, it is really about
your own physical limit, a good crack with your mates, and climbing
some cool problems in an environment that no one can tire of.
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| info
and latest routes |
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More
Information
CoastalCrags
Mountain Crags
Bouldering
database
Latest Routes:
Mark's Wall V4/5
Up to 12+ of above problems, (sic)Highball wall with crack near right arete, follow crack to top (facing Llanberis)
Area/Guidebook: Llanberis
Crag: Horns Boulders, Pen y pass
10/08/2002 M Evans
Red Bull V4
Slopey lip trav. R-L on back of same block as Clint Eastwood. SS on Slopey Boss, crank L on Slopers to finish up rib,.
Area/Guidebook: Llanberis
Crag: Horns Boulders, Pen y pass
10/08/2002 M Evans
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