Bouldering

 
Bouldering in North Wales.

A Northern Soul Production

Rock climbing enthusiasts can not fail to notice the increase in popularity of bouldering not only in North Wales, but also in the whole of Britain. Since the explosion of bouldering in North Wales in the winter of 96/97, the emergence of the 'pad people' has become a regular sight especially on the lush hillsides of the Llanberis pass. It seems, and I generalise here, that before then bouldering in this area was not purely a sport in itself, but merely a training for roped climbing or a past time away from the stresses and strains of long routes. However, before 1996, a rich history was being established and this has been the basis for classic and historic problems, traditional areas, and an element of cloak and dagger regarding some truly special venues.

However the main protagonists were merely loading the canon, and now we have in this area groups of climbers who predominately boulder.

As a result the number of venues and problems has increased providing a need for two fanzine style bouldering guides which have now been produced, and also the standard of the hardest problems is keeping pace with other areas in Britain.

Bouldering in North Wales is, although quite seasonal and sometimes a little esoteric, a very special experience and so I have put together a selection of the best venues, chronicling there location, conditions and some of the golden problems to look out for.


However, before 1996, a rich history was being established and this has been the basis for classic and historic problems, traditional areas, and an element of cloak and dagger regarding some truly special venues. However the main protagonists were merely loading the canon, and now we have in this area groups of climbers who predominately boulder. As a result the number of venues and problems has increased providing a need for two fanzine style bouldering guides which have now been produced, and also the standard of the hardest problems is keeping pace with other areas in Britain.

 



 


Bouldering in North Wales is, although quite seasonal and sometimes a little esoteric, a very special experience and so I have put together a selection of the best venues, chronicling there location, conditions and some of the golden problems to look out for.

This is however not a definitive work, merely an introductory taster, there are loads more venues, problems and projects all information on which can be gleaned from volume one and two of Bouldering in North Wales produced by Northern Soul and available immediately from Outside in Llanberis.

Now, if you're sat in Pete's Eats reading this on their internet facility and chomping on one of their huge chip butties get out there and start cranking! But remember when your fingers are trashed and your joints are aching reconvene in Pete's, bull on, drink endless brews and soak up the total pleasure of climbing in North Wales.

Bouldering, the essence of rock climbing, a definition.

Bouldering is the real essence of rock climbing. It is an activity where the climber is unhindered by fear and uncluttered by climbing equipment, and they are free to climb at their physical limit.

Bouldering is usually played out on short cliffs or boulders, and movement, timing, and sheer physical strength take precedence over boldness or route experience found in conventional rock climbing.

The routes up these particular boulders are called 'problems' and they are named and then graded for difficulty. By doing this the difficulty of a particular boulder problem can be compared to other problems, and as in conventional rock climbing a climber can pit themselves at problems to which they feel suitable.

Because the hardest moves are always found in bouldering, one can say that the ascentsionist of the hardest boulder problem is the strongest climber.

But I think bouldering has a deeper meaning, it is really about your own physical limit, a good crack with your mates, and climbing some cool problems in an environment that no one can tire of.

 


  info and latest routes  
  More Information

Latest Routes:

Mark's Wall V4/5 

Up to 12+ of above problems, (sic)Highball wall with crack near right arete, follow crack to top (facing Llanberis)

Area/Guidebook: Llanberis
Crag: Horns Boulders, Pen y pass
10/08/2002 M Evans


Red Bull V4 

Slopey lip trav. R-L on back of same block as Clint Eastwood. SS on Slopey Boss, crank L on Slopers to finish up rib,.

Area/Guidebook: Llanberis
Crag: Horns Boulders, Pen y pass
10/08/2002 M Evans