New Routes

Latest New Routes

Nighty Night 90m. XS 

Starts upthe amenable ground R of Controlled Explosions, then gets nasty. Start at the base of the abseil.
1.42m.5a. Follow a L-trending weakness up various grooves and ledges, till after a diversion on the R, it leads to a large belay ledge L of an open bay.
2.48m.5a.Serious. Move up R into a groove, climb it then traverse L to some corners formed by massive detached blocks. Above these, break L into a shallow gully. Climb this and the evil ground above to the top. Ingenuity needed to belay, (and to make it this far).

Area/Guidebook: Lleyn
Crag: Paitsh, Cilan Area
28/01/2006 Pat Littlejohn, James Bruton

Second Bite 45m. E2,5b 

R of the cave stance of The Bight is a prominent nose of rock. Scramble up to ledges below this. Climb the groove on the R side of the nose and continue to a band of ledges. Step L and climb through a steeper band before trending R till just before the belay-less grass slope. Traverse 8m. R to good ledges and belays.

Area/Guidebook: Lleyn
Crag: Black Bay, Cilan Area
19/12/2005 Steve Sustad, Pat Littlejohn

The Bight 48m. E2 

The easiest 'escape route' from Black Bay. Start beneath the low relief buttress R of Escapade.
1. 12m.4b. Climb a groove in the crest to a luxury belay at the shallow cave.
2. 36m.5b. Trend easily L-wards to ledges then bear R up a line of shallow grooves and steep bands, finishing via a cracked corner.

Area/Guidebook: Lleyn
Crag: Black Bay, Cilan Area
19/12/2005 Steve Sustad, Pat Littlejohn (AL)

Tithonus E7,6c 

Goes up the area of rock to the L of The Wasp.
Start as for Sisyphus and climb up to the base of the blank groove, peg. Traverse L as for the crux of Sisyphus, then go up the L arete of the blank groove and place an RP in the thin diagonal crack. Hard moves lead R into the groove and up, rocking out L to easy ground which leads up to the big ledge.

Area/Guidebook: Tremadog
Crag: Craig Y Castell, The Tremadog Cliffs
22/10/2005 Peter Robins, Adam Wainstock & 2 others

Shifty 24m. XS,6a 

A mini epic starting 25m. L of Sapphic Fragment where a big flake crack doesn't quite reach the ground. Boulder to the crack, climb to the top of the flake then step up and make a tricky mantel onto a narrow ledge running off L. Follow cracks in the open corner to an unstable finish.

Area/Guidebook: Lleyn
Crag: Pared Mawr, Cilan Area
12/10/2005 Pat Littlejohn, James Bruton

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