New Routes

Latest New Routes

Goldfinger E5/6,6b 

A bold eliminate between Plumbline & Goldrush. Boulder problem start L of Plumbline leads to an easy flake. An intense sequence then leads to a good hold on Goldrush beneath the overlap. Finish up this route. A runner at mid height in Plumbline and beneath the resting ledge on Goldrush will just prevent a ground fall from the crux.

Area/Guidebook: North Wales Limestone
Crag: Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme
01/10/2005 P.Hawkins,S.Upton F.A, October 2004

Manic Monday E2 

Buttress 7. Start at a boulder on the R of the small vegetated bay below the gully between Decameron Rib & Another Route. The route takes the L edge of the slab that bounds the R side of the gully.
1.20m.5b. Pull up R off the boulder onto the slab of rock that leans against the bottom of Dec.Rib. Follow this until a wide step L can be made to gain the main slab just below the tree. Climb the slab to a ledge level with the 1st. pitch of Dec. Rib.
2.25m.5b/c. Climb off the belay ledge stepping L a.s.a.p. to gain the clean rock. Follow the L edge of the slab where sustained climbing and sparse gear lead to easier ground, finishing up a short corner to the belay.

Area/Guidebook: Carneddau
Crag: Craig Braich Ty Du, Carneddau
29/09/2005 Bob Lewis, Andy Bewick

Gentle Ben E3,5b 

Start one metre L of Accept for Access.
Climb boldly up to a finger jug for your R hand, and climb L-wards to a hold on the arete, RP5. Continue to climb the small corner to a good rest and RP2. Climb delicately up the shallow groove on small side pulls to a pocket and the end of the difficulties. Continue to the top.

Area/Guidebook: Llanberis Pass
Crag: Little Benjamin Buttress, South Side of The Pass
11/09/2005 Ryan McConnell

All the Young Dudes E1,5b 40 metres 

A direct line up the middle of the buttress.Start as for Boch. Eliminate.
From lowset point of the buttress go straight up to reach the top of the upper gangway. Nut slot on R. Climb the vague groove directly above to reach the hand traverse ledge of Boch. Eliminate. Continue direct, past a flake on the L, to reach the fault line crossing the face. Go up and slightly L, then back R, improving holds lead to the top.

Area/Guidebook: Ogwen
Crag: Clogwyn Bochlwyd, Ogwen
02/09/2005 M.Bailey, A.Leary, M.Fraser

Tue (pronounced 'tway') Severe 

Just L of the existing routes the crag becomes broken for a distance, then comes a small roof and fairly distinctive R-facing corner where the crag becomes larger.
Climb the corner itself and continue directly above on the R wall.

Area/Guidebook: Meirionnydd
Crag: Carreg Fawr, Rhinogs West
30/08/2005 Matt Baker, Storm Bate

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