Pete's Eats, Llanberis, centre of the climbing universe and in particular,
Whether your thing is to crank on E2's all day,
poddle around picnicking and scrambling around the Park or test
your adrenaline levels on a major, serious 'head-piece', Pete's
Eats is where the safari and the information starts.
A few ideas within easy reach of Pete's.
Llanberis is situated in a mountain environment
and The Llanberis Pass is just up the road and offers classics
at all grades. Cenotaph Corner E1, Cemetery Gates HVS and Brant
Direct HVS. Left Wall at E2 is a good introduction to the steep
wall climbing found on the Cromlech - and testing pieces like
Right Wall E5, Lord of the Flies E6 are fine examples.
Cockblock E5 on the Grochan is a more technical
problem and The Wrinkle on Carreg Wasted an easier alternative
at Severe. Over the road on the Mot lies the Diagonal HVS and
plenty of fine lines on Plexus Buttress.
Bouldering is now a major feature of the Pass -
Cromlech Boulders by the road is the traditional start and wandering
up the hill on the other side of the road leads to the Barrel
collection and across to Utopia Boulder and on and on until improvisation
Cyrn Las, at the head of the cwm above the bouldering
area offers classic mountain routes and Main Wall VS is the best
Cloggy is, of course the best crag in the
world for E2's - Scorpio, Silhouette, The Hand Traverse - every
one is of 'sound character'! Easier, mountain-crag routes like
Curving Crackand Vember will keep you on your toes.
Cloggy is also known for a few really, really, really
hard routes. Great Wall at E4 introduces this 'thin' terrain.
There are also slabs above The Western Terrace!
Across Lake Padarn can be seen a few slate
gems with the chalked line of Comes The Dervish E3 the most obvious,
and to its right Last Tango In Paris E2. Flashdance E5 takes a
direct approach up the slab. Over on the Rainbow Slab, round the
corner towards Dinorwig, run the great slate innovations of the
eighties. Pull My Daisy E3 is superb, others are scary and thin,
like Poetry Pink E5 6b and others downright silly! Around the
corner is Colossus Wall, and Colossus E3 is a gem. On a rainy
day, adventuring in the huge playground of tunnels and inclines
and ladders of Dinorwig Quarry is a must - a real Dungeons and
The sea cliffs of Anglesey are only 25 miles
away and offer sun-drenched romantic routes above a sparkling
Irish Sea - really! Gogarth, Rhoscolyn and North Stack
to name a few. The route, Gogarth E1 itself is the classic on
the main cliff. The Strand E2 on the Upper Tier is good value
and Barbarossa E5 a test piece. Talking Heads E2 at North Stack
and Blue Peter E4 are both worth the hairy abseil into the cove.
When the mountains are a little wet or inconsiderate,
an often dry alternative is Tremadoc. Half an hour from
Petes and a great mountain drive down Nant Gwynant, you
will pass Clogwyn Y Wenallt by the campsite on the lake. Ferdinand
and Bovine E2 are fine exposed routes. You will park at at Eric's
cafe, at the bottom of the main routes. Vector E2 and Weaver E2
are superb. Void E3 and Cream E4 venture onto the headwall and
provide technical, but safe moves in a great position. Tremadoc
is the home of the VS grade and the quality continues with the
There is also bouldering down on
the beach at Black Rock Sands. sandcastles and swimming!
Further afield lie the more esoteric
cliffs of the Lleyn Peninsular, and shoreline bouldering
areas like Porth Ysgo are well worth a visit.
A parallel valley to Llanberis
is the Ogwen Valley and it is down here that The Idwal
Slabs and Suicide walls are situated. The worn smooth lines of
Faith, Hope and Charity wend their way up the slab, and the descent
takes in a fine view of the harder, more serious routes on Suicide
Wall. Suicide Wall E2 is itself a classic. This area is a popular
winter venue with many of the surrounding crags sporting ice routes
of all grades.
This guide is a mere hint, with
hundreds of crags in between and boulders scattered from the roads
to the wilderness - and some, for sure, are waiting to be named!