Rock Climbing in Tremadog
Introduction
Tremadog is very much a wet weather alternative to the mountains,
Porthmadog has rainfall levels of about 1,200mm per annum and
plenty of sunshine, even in the winter months. However, with a
little cunning one can find other lowish crags in the area without
suffering the crowds at Tremadog. There is also another climbing
cafe at Tremadog, Bwlch y Moch Cafe, owned by the famous Welsh
climber and skydiver Eric Jones - so the cafe is also known as
Eric's Caff. There is a New Routes Book here also; dealing mainly
with routes in that area (another chance to claim those ballpoint
ascents. Eh?); the cafe also sells climbing gear.
Getting to the Cliffs
Getting to Tremadog is not difficult to describe, there are two
main ways to get to there - either follow the 'Coast Road' from
Caernarfon towards Portmadog - on getting to the village of Tremadog
head straight on to Eric's Cafe; or, take the 'Mountain Road'
up the Llanberis Pass and down the Gwynant Valley to Beddgelert
Nant Gwynant has a number of bases from which to start from depending
where you want to climb. For Clogwyn y Bustach and Clogwyn y Wenallt
it is best to park at the campsite at the head of Llyn Gwynant
OS Ref. 649 524 (you will be charged) and then to walk up to the
crags. Craig y Llyn has ample parking for those brave enough to
visit at the head of Llyn Dinas.
For Nanmor your best bet is to park at the picnic site at OS
Ref 620 467 - that is if you are heading for the cliffs on Moel
Dyniewyd. Otherwise the best place to park for the crags on Yr
Arddu is at Croesor OS Ref 6344
Access
At Tremadog cliffs are all fairly easy to get to and do not suffer
from access problems on the whole. Craig y Gelli does have a new
access path, the directions are up on the wall in Eric's cafe
and in the new guide - make sure you keep to them. At Craig y
Castell, do not park anywhere near the entry into; or; on the
spur road leading past the Primary School - park on the main road
- its wide enough.
Climbing Characteristics
The rock in Tremadog is a form of dolerite, although denser than
granite it is not as bland, it provides routes of all grades and
tastes; thruchy chimneys, clean cut aretes, beetling overhangs
and blank slabs. The friction on some of the routes is superb,
even on those climbs that suffer a tremendous amount of traffic,
the rock has not polished up too badly. The Tremadog scarp may
only be an outcrop, but the four cliffs contain some of the best
breadth of grades and assortment of climbing in the area, everyone
will be able to find something at their standard - depending upon
their bent.
Nant Gwynant
The climbs on the cliffs of nant gwynant vary a great deal from
crag to crag. Bustach may be too loose for some people. However,
don't let that put you off too much, there are good climbs on
good rock. Y Wenallt is beautifully located and the rock tends
to provide flakes and incuts. Craig y Llyn is rather slopey in
character and tends to mossiness; it is a 'big boys' crag - so
beware.
Nanmor
All the cliffs in this area are generally pleasant little outcrops;
one or two routes have some suspect rock but in general the crags
are superb.
Guidebook
Tremadog Published by the Climbers Club
Remember
For new routes information, apart from this website look through
a copy of one of the recent new routes books in Pete's Eats; or'
an alternative New Route's book to be found in Eric's Cafe.
